Traveling to Switzerland and want to go rock climbing while you’re in the country? Then you’ve come to the right place because this detailed guide features the best climbing routes in the Alpine country.
Spend a half day climbing or go on an adventure that can easily take you several days – the rock climbing routers of Switzerland have something to offer to everyone. There are countless easy routes perfect for beginners, but also extremely difficult routes that are competing for the title of the world’s most difficult climb. In any case, here’s everything you need to know about rock climbing in Switzerland!
Table of Contents
Best Places to Rock Climb in Switzerland
Magic Wood
Magic Wood is one of the most famous bouldering areas not just in Switzerland, but in the entire world. It’s situated in the eastern Swiss Alps close to the Ausserferrera village, and it is most popular during the climbing season between May and November.
This is by far the best place in Switzerland for veteran climbers because most of the ascents here are hard and suitable only for people with plenty of climbing experience. Most blocs are quite big with challenging approaches, and rough granite. The rocks dry rather quickly, so it’s possible to find dry patches even if you’re climbing during rain.
Because the routes at Magic Wood are considered very challenging, it’s recommended to bring more than one spotter along, preferably several crash pads. If you visit this popular vertical climbing area in the summer, expect large crowds.
Lake Oeschinen
Lake Oeschinen is popular for its many multi-pitch routes and spectacular views. The lake is a mesmerizing turquoise color, which owes to glacial waters. Oeschinensee is also surrounded by tall peaks, so you will have plenty of options for climbing routes.
It’s worth noting that most routes are quite narrow and steep, so not really suitable for inexperienced climbers. Many routes also start off easy but feature much steeper climbing once you’re closer to the top. Also, reaching the lake is an adventure of its own, since you get to hike through a spectacular valley covered with several mountain creeks, and enjoy some truly stunning scenic views.
The area around Lake Oeschinen features several shorter routes that aren’t as steep, and these are the most appealing to climbers who don’t have as much experience.
Matterhorn
Is there a more iconic rock climbing destination than the pyramid-shaped peak of Matterhorn? Switzerland’s famous Toblerone mountain attracts countless mountaineers and climbers every year, who want to finally get this challenging route off their bucket lists.
Ascents on the Matterhorn are done from Hörnligrat, and it is necessary to enlist a guide for this route because of the dangers of falling rocks. If you’re only a meter off the route, you are in grave danger of (causing) falling rocks.
This is by far the most difficult climbing route in Switzerland, suitable only for people with years and decades of previous experience. It also cannot be done without trained guides, so don’t even attempt to climb Matterhorn on your own. If you’re thinking that the difficulty of the route is blown out of proportion, I would highly recommend a quick visit to the mountaineer’s cemetery in Zermatt, where you can pay respects to the many people who never managed to complete a safe scent on the Matterhorn.
Jura Mountains
The Jura Mountains in western and northern Switzerland is pretty much a playground for climbers, with countless routes of varying difficulties. There’s everything from quick and easy ascents to challenging crag climbs suitable only for those with years of experience.
These mountains are known for limestone rock, so they are best suited for intermediate and advanced climbers. It’s possible to climb here throughout the year, although not all the routes will be open or perfectly safe in the winter season. It depends on the weather in the winter, so keep that in mind.
Some of the most popular Alpine climbing routes in the Jura mountains are Arête des Sommêtres, Gerstelfluegrat, Edelgrat, and Arête du Raimeux, among countless others.
The Bernese Highlands
The Bernese Oberland region features a multitude of climbing routes on various mountains of the western Swiss Alps. Most mountains and rocks feature a mix of limestone and sandstone and offer a good choice of routes that vary in technical difficulty.
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The Engelhörner climbing area is one of the most popular in the region, with a variety of longer Alpine routes as well as multi-pitch routes. In total, there are more than a hundred routes in this area, so you will be spoiled for choice.
Lehn is one of the most popular sport climbing crags in the Bernese Oberland region, with some 120 climbing routes in total. Most routes are not longer than 30 meters, and they’re usually very well bolted, although there can be large spaces between the bolts.
Chironico
Chironico is one of the most popular destinations for bouldering in Switzerland and it’s up there with Magic Wood. With more than 2,000 boulder problems in a small area accessible by short walks, you could spend days here having fun and climbing to your heart’s desire.
There are three separate crags in Chironico, with hundreds of routes in each of them. Chironico North is the only crag to feature a 9A elite free climbing route, and it’s the perfect destination for climbers who are looking for a proper challenge. This crag also features nearly 200 easy routes, around 400 intermediate routes, and more than 200 advanced and hard routes.
Chironico South features more than 790 routes that range in difficulty from easy to hard, while Chironico Schattental features “only” 240+ routes, including one sport climbing route, and another route rated 8C.
Cadarese
Cadarese is a rock climbing area in northern Italy, but it’s easily accessible from southern Switzerland so definitely worth including on this list. The area is very close to the Swiss border and features 8 sport and 29 trad climbing routes that range in difficulty from 5 to 8A.
Cadarese is famous for granite crags and cracks, and it’s known for excellent crack climbing with more than 50 cracks. One of the routes in this area is also a serious contender for the most difficult trad climb in the world, and it’s the perfect destination for seasoned climbers who are looking for a true challenge.
Additionally, it’s worth noting that lots of cracks in Cadarese are bolted, so it’s possible to climb them even if you don’t have all the gear that’s usually required. This also allows less experienced climbers to attempt routes that they usually wouldn’t be able to.
Jungfrau
Jungfrau is one of the most prominent peaks of the Bernese Alps, famous for quite a few things, rock climbing included. The impressive peak is considered moderately difficult to climb, and although most of the route is not too challenging, the final sections are hard enough to discourage those without a lot of climbing experience.
To climb Jungfrau you will have to cross multiple types of terrain, including snow, ice, and rock. At one point you will even need to cross a glacier, and the final section is mostly climbing over exposed rock and ice. It’s certainly a challenging climbing route in Switzerland and recommended only for advanced and intermediate climbers.
Access to Jungfrau is fairly easy, thanks to the mountain railway that takes you to Jungraujoch. Most ascents on the Jungfrau start from Mönchsjochhütte, where climbers will arrive the night before, so they can start the climb even before daylight.
Cresciano
Cresciano is one of the best bouldering areas in Switzerland and wider, with more than 1,300 routes. This area became world famous after Dreamtime was opened in the early 2000s; at the time, it was the hardest 8C route in the world. It was subsequently downgraded to an 8B+ route, but that didn’t impact the popularity of the Cresciano climbing area at all.
Cresciano boasts three separate crags with more than a thousand routes in one of them, and a little more than a hundred routes in each of the others. The Cresciano crag features by far the most routes, including 43 sport climbing routes and 1,100+ bouldering routes. The many routes of Cresciano range in difficulty from 3 to 8C, so they are suitable for climbers of all skill levels.
Cresciano Osogna boasts 19 sports, 2 trad, and 91 boulder climbing routes. Their difficulty is from 4 to 8A, so there are plenty of options for climbers of different skill levels. And finally, there’s Claro, with routes that range from 5+ to 8C in difficulty. This crag is best for experienced climbers, and it features 2 trad and 91 sport climbing routes.
Tips For Rock Climbing in Switzerland
Plan and research your routes. It’s crucial that you are familiar with the climbing routes and that you know exactly what to expect. Check the popular forums to see what other climbers are saying about the technical difficulty of the routes, and make sure you have all the necessary equipment. The more prepared you are the better, and it will be easier to avoid any surprises.
Training is equally important. If you’re planning to take on some of the more challenging climbing routes in Switzerland, you’ll have to train for them the same way you would train for a long-distance hike or even a marathon. Start with easier climbs or even rock climbing gym courses, practice your grip, and improve your reflexes.
When in doubt, look for a guide. Look, there’s no shame in getting someone who knows the lay of the land to take you on your first rock-climbing adventure in Switzerland. Find a local guide, who has probably climbed the route you’re eyeing at least a couple of dozen times previously, and you’ll be a little more at ease. They’ll know all the tricks of the route, and what you need to bring, and you’ll meet a like-minded local who might become your friend for life.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is rock climbing popular in Switzerland?
Yes, rock climbing is very popular in Switzerland. The Alpine country is practically a playground for Alpine climbers, what with its many traditional Alpine-style routes, sport climbing opportunities, and via ferratas in the Swiss Alps.
Is rock climbing safe in Switzerland?
Rock climbing is as safe in Switzerland as anywhere else in the world. There are no particularly dangerous climbing routes in the Alpine countries, at least not ones that are open to the general public. Rock climbing carries certain risks, but you should be able to overcome those if you prepare, train, and have all the necessary safety and climbing equipment.
